Just when you wonder whether chain restaurants can ever get anything right, along comes Tricky Fish.

The new contemporary cousin to Addison-based Razzoo’s opened this week in the Waterside shops, and might be that center’s biggest success yet.

Tricky Fish is billed as more of a Gulf Coast seafood shack than Razzoo’s, but the menu honestly combines plenty of Cajun spice with grilled or fried seafood platters, sandwiches, burgers, salads and sides like fried okra spears or Tillamook cheddar mac-and-cheese.

The signature “tricky” dish has blackened tilapia, salmon or redfish ($14.50-$19) topped with crawfish etouffee and served with dirty rice and okra sides. It’s enough to share.

Like Razzoo’s, Tricky Fish is generous with the spice.

Wisely, the owners didn’t stray far from what they know.

Tricky Fish is all about shrimp and po-boys and big desserts like bread pudding with…

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